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The Option (Mac) or Alt (PC) key on your keyboard can do a lot of the magic in Lightroom. I had to write about this in a separate header so that you don’t miss it. Let’s now play with a real image to see how we can sharpen it in Lightroom. See the examples below.Ĭombining the above controls, you could effectively sharpen your images without much work and dramatically cut your workflow time. The softer and less defined the background, the better the results. While it is not very useful for images that have too much detail and too many edges all over the image, it works magic for images that isolate subjects from the background. This is the tool that would take care of the extra noise produced by “Amount” and “Detail” sliders around your subjects.
Masking – the most useful and versatile feature that masks out areas that should not be sharpened, similar to the mask tool in Photoshop. I try to stay below 50 on the detail slider because higher numbers often considerably increase the amount of noise. For example, if you are working on an image of a bird, if you leave the detail at “0”, only the edges of thick feathers would get sharpened, while using a larger number above 50 would bring out and sharpen even the thinner feathers. A small value like 0 only sharpens large edges, while a high value like 100 would sharpen even the smallest edges. Detail – as the name suggests, the detail slider controls the amount of sharpening on the edges or “details” of the image. I use the default radius value of 1.0 most of the time and I recommend keeping it under 1.5. If you increase the radius to a maximum value of 3.0, sharpening will be spread over three pixels around the edge, resulting in thicker, “shadowy” edges. The default value of 1.0 means that Lightroom will apply sharpening over 1 pixel around the edge. Radius – the size of the sharpening area around the edges. I typically set 50 as the default value for my images, but sometimes can increase or decrease the amount depending on the image and noise levels. Too much sharpening will also increase the noise. The higher the number, the more sharpening you will see. Zero means no sharpening is applied to the image. Amount – the amount of sharpening you want to apply to an image.
The Sharpening Tool has four different sliders:
Expand the right panel in Lightroom and scroll down until you get to “Detail”. #Clarify image full size
I highly recommend to view your images at full size (100%) before making any sharpening changes.
Left-click your image to view it at 100%. Press “D” on your keyboard or click on “Develop” on the top right panel to get into the Develop module. Go ahead and open a sample image in Lightroom, then do the following: It is always easier to explain things with examples. Being able to specify custom settings on images during the import process is also another time saver, especially when working with thousands of photographs. If I make a mistake or want to go back to the original image, I can simply reset the image to its original state or revert modifications through the history panel. Unlike Photoshop, Lightroom does not modify images – it stores changes either in a separate file or in image headers, depending on the image format. Before Lightroom, I used to sharpen every single image through Photoshop, which was painful, time-consuming, and destructive (meaning once you make changes to an image in Photoshop, you cannot undo them). It is very similar to Photoshop’s “Unsharp Mask” tool, but better because it gives you extra controls over how you can sharpen your images. Lightroom comes with a very powerful sharpening tool within the Develop module, under the “Detail” panel. Note the amount of noise, visible lines, zigzag lines on the grass and too much texture – all because of over-sharpening an image. #Clarify image iso
Here is an example of an over-sharpened image: NIKON D3S 550mm, ISO 2800, 1/1600, f/5.6
Zigzag lines – straight thin lines can get converted over to zigzags and circular shapes can get cubic transitions when excessive sharpening with a large radius is applied. The worst result is when an image is already shot at high ISO levels and sharpening is applied on top of the digital grain, resulting in even more noise. Too much noise – using excessive amounts of sharpening can add a lot more noise to an image. Over-sharpened images often look too “textured”. Over-sharpening – when too much sharpening is used, it results in harsh, visible lines on edges and around objects. Because of this, most photographers try to sharpen their images in post-processing applications, which can result in all kinds of problems such as:
Sharp images look aesthetically more pleasing than soft or blurry images.